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I still have my original PSONE, it's just a shame they're region locked by default, as they seemed much sturdier than the original playstation that launched, but it seems like these are much more difficult to get held of, as they had a much smaller release window.

I love that you continue to troubleshoot and investigate even if you have a way to 'solve' it right there. You could have one board fully fixed... or TWO! Also, all the swapping of parts has probably really helped you learn and continue to grow your skills that way so don't think of any of it as wasted time! (Sorry still getting through your video backlog, will be caught up soon!)

I just wouldn't bother messing about with it.

Loved dr jones at fast speed lol

And where do you sel this items? I cant find them...

Plz change way you doing “de rust” that un profesional

Hi from Australia.. i really like watching u have a go at fixing stuff.. i stumbled across your channel by accident and love it!! Im a 50 yr old female who isnt into this stuff but for some reason find this realy interesting and have a chuckle at the little jokes u make.. keep up the great work!

I love that shade of blue/green. 🥵

The coil is an inductor of a specific value which is vital to the operation of the circuit. Your original coil was fried and had become a short circuit. It was no longer a coil with a specific inductance value measured in mH (milli-henrys) it had become just a direct link. You cannot measure inductance using a multi-meter set to measure resistance. It was the coil causing the problem.

why such a large tipped soldering iron?

S1 is a Switch the S stands for "S"witch. Forrest Mims' books has all that elementary info....

could also be a cracked solder joint under that IC, just from the effect of poking it and reflowing it. either way, you need a better multimeter with a continuity function that doesn't lead you up blind alleys. i would suggest brymen

First time Ive come across your channel (unusual content for me) but I reallly enjoyed watching your repair activities.

Just won your money back.. KEKW

Still just here for the raps and the songs! Awesome content :D

Stop soldering in a hurricane ...

3 years later this might help me a lot. Thanks a lot Steve. I just received a faulty Retron 5 so this weekend my intentions are to open it and try to fix it. I suppose I will have to order parts from China but still a nice project. :)

FINALLY!... that one was a right mystery, well done.

Excellent !!

I dont know why I read barbecue and then saw barbie

I gotta say, impressive music at the end there! That was "solid".

I’ve just came across your channel and I’ve got to say that I love it. I’ve binged watched like 20+ videos 😂 keep em coming man. So satisfying to watch 😎

😂😂😂😂

😂😂😅😂😅😅😂😅😂😅😂😅😂😂😅

Am I the only one to notice 18 Volts on the multimeter for absolutly no reason ?

Yeah that super capacitor is annoying though. Have a mint green one and it needs replacing

I’m over the moon with your 107 days since melting plastic, don’t be so quick to blame it after this video, your doing a swell job steve, just remember Dave is you helper, not vice versa. Lol keep up the great videos mate. 🤙🏼🇦🇺 Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺

Nice try Steve 😢

Be brave !!! 👍

Have you tried using the remote control? As with some 'real' TVs 'on' means standby. You need to use the remote to turn it on...

Those are not shorts. They are simply a very low resistance tracks. And, if you did not know, the multimeter beeper is designed to simply beep once the checked resistance is below 50 Ohms. So anything you test that is below 50 Ohms will beep and this beeper function could be VERY misleading in these kinds of diagnostics. ALWAYS confirm shorts with a simple Ohm resistance function which will show 0 or close to 0 Ohms, not the continuity beeper option. These APUs, CPUs and GPUs are powered and driven by very small resistance components and tracks. For example, most GPU power phases are around 1 Ohm, so it is pretty much impossible to confirm if the APU/CPU/GPU is shorted. The only way to confirm this is to know the board and resistances on it or have a working board for a comparison.

The module name is SMSC CX870-3B-D120, google it by fcc id and you find service manual.

In my case (on Zeppelin Air, but essentially the same) the BGA blade of the CPU was to blame. Resoldered and everything worked. try putting the board in the freezer for 10 minutes and turning it on, if it works then most likely you need to resolder the CPU. Be careful, the quality of the board is not high, damage the pad is likely.

I think I put a piece of tape over the 'speaker grill'. It helped a little

I liked the rapping clip. But this is a pointless toy product

SCRAP THAT BLOB

Could you avoid the RAP music?

SHOOOT HERRRRR......SHOOOOOT HEEEEERRRR

Oh wow I had that game when it came out, I was big into TMNT at that time, I remember it but had forgot until just seeing it here.

Absolutely no idea what happening here but “dang” it was entertaining 👌🏻

best reaction to a fix ever, thats exactly what I do when something works when I had no confidence it would and am absurdly happy, just makes faces and noises of fantasticness. Well done on the repair, thats so much harder than it looks.

Loving the new kick ass repair music it realy gets the soul pumping..

Chinah !

What have you got to lose ? Not working anyway what’s the worse it still doesn’t work?

S1 means switch 1

scrape it away !!!!!!

Nice.

4:55 That is the contact switch for the "demo mode". When you remove the plastic tab and the contact closes the device operates normally.

We want to see you ruin the blob chip and try and replace the chip underneath.

That was a killer cover of Duran Duran!